Nitara at Hyatt Centric: A Handcrafted Journey Through India, One Tapas Plate at a Time

Some dining experiences are grand; others are intimate. Nitara, a tucked-in, lovingly crafted space inside the iconic Sesame Bar at Hyatt Centric, belongs to the latter category. Conceived by General Manager and food enthusiast Xenia Jamshyd Lam, Nitara is less a restaurant and more a handcrafted culinary narrative, a gentle wander through India’s rich foodscape told in small plates, warm lights and personal memories.

A Pop-Up Style Space Inspired by India’s Artisanal Aesthetic
Created inside the famous Sesame Bar, the concept is a pop-up style nook with the heart of a home kitchen. The entire space is a DIY, from cushions stitched out of old saree fabrics to a nostalgic gola centrepiece reminiscent of Juhu Beach evenings. Warm amber lights, mirrored panels and textured walls create an ambience that feels both artisanal and intimate, as though you’ve stepped into someone's lovingly curated living room rather than a hotel restaurant.

Small Plates that Map the Flavours of India
What makes Nitara compelling is not just its decor but its philosophy: a small plates menu curated from flavours and inspirations drawn from across India. Each dish represents a pin on the country’s culinary map from the lanes of Chandni Chowk to the coasts of Malabar, the bylanes of Goa, the spice gardens of the South and the paan stalls that mark the end of countless Indian meals.

We began our journey with the Chandni Chowk Ki Chaat, a revelation in layers and texture. An almond-crusted aloo tikki forms the base- crisp outside, soft inside, crowned with an ethereal cloud of curd and a ribbon of saunth chutney. The first spoonful feels like being transported straight to Old Delhi, its sweet, tangy, and spicy notes are as evocative as a walk through Paranthe Wali Gali.

The Pallipalayam Kalan with neer dosa follows, a tribute to the flavours of Tamil Nadu. Earthy, spiced mushrooms paired with the soft, lacy neer dosa create a dish that’s understated yet deeply comforting.

From the Malabar coast comes the Nitara Pancer Roast Taco, where flaky parotta replaces the tortilla to create a coastal Indian take on the taco. Packed with caramelised spice notes, coconut hints and pan-seared richness, it’s a dish that is both playful and rooted.

One of the most delightful bites of the evening was the Lamb Galouti Cones, velvety galouti kebab nestled in crisp little cones. Each bite is a whisper of Lucknow’s culinary finesse, with its trademark melt-in-the-mouth texture and fragrant spice balance.

The itinerary moves westward with the Cafreal chicken stuffed inside soft, pillowy poi bread, a Goan-inspired snack that delivers on both flavour and nostalgia. Bright, herbaceous cafreal masala wrapped in tender poi creates a mouthful that is equal parts comfort and character.

The Inji Puli Kozhi showcases Kerala’s love for ginger and tamarind, combining tang, heat and sweetness in perfect harmony. Alongside it, the chicken seekh served on a sugarcane skewer adds a smoky, sweet contrast, a clever nod to coastal snacking traditions.

A Dessert Section Driven by Memory and Craft
Desserts at Nitara are not an afterthought; they are a continuation of the journey. The Nolengur Mishti Doi Cheesecake blends Bengal’s beloved caramelly-sweet mishti doi with the texture of a modern cheesecake. It’s indulgent yet familiar. The PaanTara, a playful nod to India’s paan culture, finishes the meal with gulkand cheese, meetha paan and a cherry; refreshing, quirky and beautifully executed.

Where Artistry Meets Nostalgia
What sets Nitara apart is how seamlessly it weaves personal nostalgia with regional authenticity. Xenia Jamshyd Lam’s touch is evident in every corner and every plate; a commitment to keeping the experience honest, warm and deeply connected to the flavours of India.

This is not merely a tapas concept. It is a curated mosaic of India, told through craft, memory and thoughtful cooking. You leave Nitara not just well-fed but reminded of your own food stories, street snacks you grew up with, holiday meals, and flavours that feel like home.

For anyone looking for a soulful, intimate dining experience that celebrates India in the most heartfelt way, Nitara at Hyatt Centric is a must-visit. It is where artistry meets nostalgia, and where every bite tells a story from somewhere in this vast, delicious country.