With Aragma, Poornima Somayaji and Chef Amit Ghorpade Are Putting Pune on the Slow Dining Map

At the heart of Pune’s evolving culinary landscape is Aragma—a 24-seater fine dining restaurant that celebrates the everyday through an extraordinary lens. Conceptualised by entrepreneur Poornima Somayaji and helmed by Chef Amit Ghorpade, Aragma was recently recognised by Condé Nast Traveller India as one of the Top 10 Promising Restaurants of 2024. The restaurant’s name, rooted in the Greek word for “enjoying the small joys of life,” echoes its philosophy: to pause, savor, and discover. In this exclusive conversation, Poornima and Chef Amit share insights into how Aragma is redefining slow dining in India—one seasonal, ingredient-forward dish at a time.

Edited Excerpts.

Poornima Somayaji

1. Aragma is more than just a restaurant—it’s an experience. What inspired you to create something so different?
Aragma was born out of a belief that India’s culinary identity lies in the everyday—our home kitchens, heirloom recipes, and seasonal rituals. I wanted to bring that sense of quiet joy into fine dining, where even the most humble ingredients tell profound stories.

2. How did you and Chef Amit work together to turn food into a way of storytelling for your guests?
Every menu begins with a central idea—like our current focus on ingredients as cultural vessels. From there, Amit and I collaborate closely: he shapes the flavours and techniques, while I weave the narrative and guest journey. Each course is a chapter in an edible storybook.

3. You work with ingredients from across India and even beyond. How do you discover these ingredients and decide which ones to bring to Aragma?
Some discoveries come from farmers, some from travel, and many from guest conversations. But every ingredient must align with our philosophy. Take zarai cheese from Darima Farms in Uttarakhand—it carries with it mountain wisdom, and we use it to add artisanal richness and depth to the plate.

4. Since many of your ingredients come from small farms or special sources, how do you make sure they are safe and of good quality?
It’s all about relationships. We work closely with our farmers and vendors, educating them on food safety practices and ensuring traceability. Every ingredient that enters Aragma is handled with the same care and intention that defines our cooking.

5. In a busy city like Pune, was it hard to introduce the idea of slow, mindful dining? How did you get people to accept and enjoy it?
Surprisingly, no. Pune’s audience is thoughtful, well-travelled, and ready to embrace something different. When guests see their familiar ingredients—like matki beans or jowar bread—transformed into elegant dishes with depth and purpose, they feel seen. And that’s incredibly powerful.

Chef Amit Ghorpade

1. Your menu is built around soil, texture, acid, and fat. How do you balance these elements while still keeping each dish exciting and new?
Each of these elements is a foundation, not a formula. “Soil” connects us to the produce, and the rest—texture, acid, and fat—help us build layers. To keep things fresh, we constantly explore new techniques and combinations. Our latest menu, for instance, pairs pineapple with mosambi for a bright contrast, and miso with almond gum for comfort and nostalgia.

2. When you come across an unfamiliar Indian ingredient, how do you decide how to use it in a modern way?
The ingredient leads the way. With something like black jaggery from Goa, we let its earthy complexity shine in unexpected places—like a house-made bread instead of dessert. Bandel cheese, with its intense funk, adds a punch to dips and spreads. It’s about allowing ingredients to evolve while retaining their soul.

3. How do you ensure your kitchen team cooks each dish the same way every time, while still understanding the story behind it?
Consistency comes from alignment. We invest heavily in training and encourage our team to understand not just the “how” but the “why.” Every dish has a narrative—where it’s from, what it represents—and sharing that helps the team cook with intention, not just precision.

4. Some ingredients you use, like aged cheese or fermented items, need special care. How do you ensure food safety when working with such ingredients?
We’re meticulous. Every team member handling sensitive ingredients undergoes specific training. From cold chain logistics to sanitisation, we follow protocols that meet—and often exceed—industry standards. Respecting the ingredient includes protecting it.

5. What does slow dining mean to you as a chef, and how do you think Indian diners are responding to this way of eating?
Slow dining is soulful dining. It’s about creating space for reflection, emotion, and discovery. Our guests in Pune are curious, engaged, and increasingly open to experiencing food as a narrative rather than just a meal. The response has been incredibly heartening.

At Aragma, every dish begins with an ingredient and ends with a memory. With its seasonal menus, intentional storytelling, and deep respect for India’s culinary roots, this Pune restaurant is not just raising the bar for fine dining—it’s slowing it down, so every bite counts. In a world obsessed with fast, Aragma is an invitation to pause.